El Calafate

We leave Chilean Patagonia and cross the border into Argentina by bus. Our first stop is the small town of El Calafate. This charming little town is one of the gateways to Los Glaciares National Park and the ideal starting point for discovering one of Argentina’s natural wonders: the Perito Moreno glacier. When we arrived, the soccer World Cup was underway, and it was in a bar that we witnessed the national team’s qualification for the semi-finals, much to the delight of the local population.

At that time, the “Blue Dollar” was ubiquitous, and our first mission was to exchange money at the best possible rate. It was December 2022, and due to hyperinflation and exchange controls, Argentina was experiencing exchange-rate chaos. The high demand for dollars as a store of value meant they could be exchanged for Argentine pesos at nearly double the official rate. Many stores, restaurants and boutiques offered the so-called “Blue Dollar” exchange rate, while Western Union offered an even more advantageous exchange rate, provided you have enough patience to wait in line.

Los Glaciares National Park

Los Glaciares National Park has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981, and owes its name to the 47 large glaciers that cover around half of its surface area. The glacier tongues rise up to 200 meters above sea level. Surrounded by the glaciers, mountains, and lakes, the Patagonian steppe and subpolar forest form a unique landscape.

A detour to the Perito Moreno glacier is a must. But that’s not all – we also embark on a 7-hour excursion across the vast Lago Argentino. Additionally, we take on the Cerro de los Cristales hike, immersing ourselves in the magnificent, remote and unspoiled nature.

Perito Moreno Glacier

The drive to the Perito Moreno glacier is an absolute pleasure. Along the shores of Lago Argentino, the landscape is at its most beautiful, and we spot a condor flying just above our car.

We set off early in the morning, knowing that the glacier is a major tourist attraction that draws large crowds. A well-designed network of walkways and observation platforms allows us to get close to the glacier and fully enjoy the scenery, offering sumptuous views.

The immense volume of the glacier is truly impressive. The ice spires of the glacier tongue rise up to 78 meters above the waters of Lago Argentino. It’s worth noting that the Perito Moreno glacier is one of the few glaciers in the world that neither retreat nor loses mass, although the reasons for this phenomenon remain unclear.

Excursion on Lago Argentino 

To discover the region, we embark on a 7-hour excursion on Lago Argentino. Although we had no particular expectations, this excursion turned out to be a highlight of our stay. Aboard a modern catamaran, we enjoy a spectacular tour with impressive views of the Upsala, Spegazzini and Perito Moreno glaciers. We were even lucky enough to spot a condor resting on a rock not far from the boat.

Hike Cerro de los Cristales

For hiking in Los Glaciares National Park, the northern village of El Chaltén is the ideal starting point. On the other hand, El Calafate hat limited options for hiking trails. However, a German ranger at the entrance of the national park gave us excellent advice. So, we set off on a simple dirt road through a wild landscape to reach the trailhead of the Cerro de los Cristales hike.

This hike is a fantastic way to escape the crowds of tourists who flock to the Perito Moreno glacier. We encounter only a few people along the way. That day, we didn’t reach the summit due to the temporary closure of the hiking trail. But after about 700 meters of ascent, we were already able to enjoy a stunning view of Lakes Roca and Argentino, as well as the Perito Moreno glacier in the distance. We settle down for a picnic with a magnificent panoramic view and watch condors circling in the sky once again.